Jan. 8th, 2005
Jan. 8, 2005
HOME: JANUARY 7, 2005: FOOD: THE DEPENDABLES AND THE DISCOVERIES
The Dependables and The Discoveries
The year in food, 2004
Virginia B. Wood's Best Sweet Bites of 2004
1) Lemon Curd: My friend Suzann Dvorken gave antique apothecary jars
of this rich, tangy spread for Christmas gifts, and I was lucky
enough to get some. Ive been spreading in on toasted scones every
day.
2) Dolce al Formaggio Che Crollare: a creamy, elegant lemon dessert
that was the crowning glory of my visits to TinTinNio.
3) Upside Down Apple Pie: Crisp apples under a buttery caramel crust
make up this signature dessert from the McCormick & Schmicks chain.
Its topped with a huge scoop of Amys cinnamon ice cream when they
serve it here an Austintatious match.
4) Peach Gelato: Matt Lee of Teos whipped up my favorite summer
flavor to complement my birthday feast.
5) 365 Natural Italian Sodas: Tangerine and Lemon flavors helped
chill out the summer, and the Cranberry added some sparkle to the
holidays. Splendid refreshers from Whole Foods.
6) Bat Creek Farm Apple Cider: Fresh pressed cider was the highlight
of a fall visit to the Downtown Farmers Market.
7) SXUL Chocolate: Rick Bristows voluptuous gold-flecked bonbons are
truly divine.
8) Kakawa Pure Whole Bean Chocolates: Sweetie Pedersen roasts the finest
cocoa beans, then dips them in chocolate and rolls them in cocoa
chocolate candy at its most basic and distinctive.
9) Pure Simple Shortbreads: Vespaio pastry chef Barrie Cullinans
crisp, buttery shortbreads were my cookie addiction this year in
plain, dark chocolate, spice, and cherry almond.
10) Mary Lou Butters' Brownies: Mary Lou makes many different flavor
combinations, each one more decadent than the last. Bring on plenty
of good coffee or cold milk.
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Virginia B. Wood's Best Savory Bites of 2004
1) Dinner at the Roger Mollett benefit: Everything from Amuse Bouches
appetizers and Salad Lyonnaise, Larry Perdidos Bouillabaisse,
assorted pt/s from Le Marseillais and the marvelous stinky cheeses
chosen by Ike Johnson, an exquisite salmon fillet with Dupuy lentils
prepared by Aquarelle, to the creme caramel from Martas Desserts and
petite sweets from the Texas Culinary Academy came together to make a
truly remarkable meal and an unforgettable evening.
2) My birthday feast at El Meson: We braved the summer heat and
devoured huitlacoche quesadillas and unique rellenos. Que magnifico!
3) Panisse With Smoked Salmon, Capers, and Anchovy Mayonnaise: My
visit to Cafe Caprice was very early in the year, but the taste
memory of the delicate fried batons of chick-pea flour, the cool
salmon, and tangy mayo still lingers.
4) Crawfish Pie: This delicacy from Cajun Creative Specialty Foods in
Jennings, La., offers rich crawfish /touff/e in an incredibly flaky
crust mighty good eating.
5) Saffron Risotto With Petit Veal Osso Buco: A sprinkling of orange
zest was the perfect grace note in this deeply satisfying dish at
TinTinNio.
6) Sauces at TinTinNio: Whether it was the mustard cream sauce with
the mussels, the marinara served alongside the fried artichokes and
risotto balls, or the elegant brandy and peppercorn reduction that
bathes the veal ravioli, the sauces here are very impressive.
7) Wagyu steaks: Luxuriously marbled and packed with flavor really
excellent beef available at Henrys Butcher Block and the Westlake
Farmers Market.
8) SpiceBurst flavored salts: The garlic is great on grilled meats,
the chipotle salt adds zing to corn on the cob, and the orange
variety enhances steamed, saut/ed, or roasted veggies. Look for them
at Grapevine Market.
9) Deviled eggs with smoke-dried tomatoes: Chronicle contributor MM
Pack whipped up a batch of these for a wine dinner at Spicewood
Vineyards, and they disappeared in a flash. (I'm keeping my fingers
crossed that the Boggy Creek Farm tomato crop makes it this year,
because my stash of smoke-dried tomatoes is officially gone now.)
10) Gulf Shrimp and Rio Star Grapefruit Salad With Avocado Sauce: Joy
Peppers (www.joypeppers.com) were the secret ingredient in the sauce
that made this salad such a hit at the same wine dinner.
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Mick Vann's Top 10 Campus-Area Eateries
My day job is at the university, in the School of Biological
Sciences, and during the past 11 years I've become intimately
familiar with every eating venue anywhere close to campus. I've
developed a short list of my favorites over time, and because I trust
you with this valuable information, I now divulge:
1) Madam Mam's Noodles and More (2514 Guadalupe, 472-8306): Truth be
told, I eat here about 90% of the time. At Mams, youll find the most
authentic Thai food that Ive eaten outside of Thailand. They present
a widely varied menu of dishes made from fresh ingredients, in big
portions, at very reasonable prices. I spend most mornings trying to
decide what Ill order that day. Excellent!
2) Kismet Cafe (411 W. 24th, 236-1811): Kismet offers a somewhat
limited menu of authentic Middle Eastern cuisine, heavy on the pita
wraps and salads. Its all great, and you have to try really hard to
spend more than 10 bucks. Greek salad with chicken, hummus, chicken
schwarma, falafel: yummm.
3) Burger Tex II (2912 Guadalupe, 477-8433): Sometimes nothing but a
burger will do, and this Korean-run spot has the best. Exceptional
burgers, bulgogi burgers, and tempura onion rings. An added plus, you
get to dress them just the way you like from the toppings bar.
4) Veggie Heaven (1914-A Guadalupe, 457-1013): Youll be packed in
like a sardine, but the large menu of vegetarian and vegan offerings
is a delight. Authentic Chinese flavors, low prices, and nice
portions. I generally dislike veggie options, but these folks yield
assertive tastes.
5) Oma's Kitchen (Dobie Mall, 472-8018): For Korean diversions, Omas
is the real deal. Mother and daughter cook up a storm at this small
street-vendor-style paradise in the food court of Dobie Mall. Stick
to the Asian dishes and you cant go wrong.
6) Hoover's Cooking (2002 Manor Rd., 479-5006): When you need some
Southern soul food comfort, Hoovers is just a short jaunt down Manor
Road. Plate lunches to die for, and its easy on the budget for big
portions of satisfying goodness. Top it off with a slab of cobbler
and try to resist the nap.
7) Niki's Pizza (Dobie Mall, 474-1876): Most Austinites dont even
know this bona fide New York-style pizza joint is here, but they have
dynamite thin crust slices and whole pies that are just as good as
those from the Big Apple. The eye candy is a plus.
8) Sampaio's (2809 San Jacinto, 469-9988): Brazilian hits the spot
when youre in a quandary for something a little different. Genuine
flavors from Rio and Salvador gimme those cheese bolinhos, the
moqueca, and a steaming platter of feijoada. We love those crazy
siganos Brasilenos!
9) Yen Ching (2910 Guadalupe, 472-4754): My favorite comfort Chinese
dish is ma po dofu, loosely translated as Mrs. Pos Pocked Bean Curd.
Its really Szechuan-style spicy bean curd with pork in hot bean
paste, and these folks make a reliable version when I just have to
get some during the day.
10) John Mueller's B-B-Q (1917 Manor Rd., 236-0283): When you have a
hankering for a slab of smoked ribs, Muellers is the place. The sides
are a tad pedestrian, but the barbecued meats hit the spot. You may
have to fight your way through the business lunch crowd to get in,
and youd best go early.
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Claudia Alarcón's Top 10 Gastronomic Discoveries and Delights
1) Uchi: Ive tried so many outstanding dishes at Uchi that I cant
mention just one. Every single time I eat there, chef Tyson Cole wows
me with something exquisite, unique, or completely new to me. His
understanding of food is tremendous, and every combination he dreams
up is a winner. I love adventurous dining, and, in my opinion, this
is the best place for it in Austin.
2) Le Marseillaise: Some of the best reasons to visit the Westlake
Farmers Market are the fabulous pt/s, vinaigrettes, tapenades, and
other French culinary specialties from chefs Sineater and Martine
Pellegrin. Not only am I addicted to these products, but their supper
club was one of the finest dining experiences I have ever had. I cant
wait until they open a permanent location.
3) Batabing Martini at the Stephen F. Austin bar: My vote in the
Official Drink of Austin contest went to this inventive and tasty
cocktail made using local products. Straight-up, ice-cold Titos vodka
with a dash of Sgt. Peppers Chipotle del Sol hot sauce and a touch of
tequila, served with a side of spicy sangrita made with other local
ingredients, including a splash of Live Oak Pilz beer. Lively and
zesty, like our city!
4) Antipasto case at Vespaio: While this is nothing new, one of my
favorite things to do in Austin is sit at Vespaios bar in the early
evening to munch on the wonders from the antipasto case while
drinking a glass of wine. I love the roasted tomatoes and goat
cheese, and this summer the fresh Texas melon slices with paper-thin
prosciutto and a glass of prosecco was my favorite combination.
5) Brazilian fruits: I certainly traveled for food in 2004, and while
my gastronomic discoveries in Brazil were many, it was the flavors of
the unique fruits of the state of Bahia that captured the essence of
my trip. I sampled ice creams and cocktails made from tropical
treasures such as caju, caj, jaca, cupuau, jenipapo, and mangaba.
Send some to Austin, please. I need a fix.
6) Roy's anniversary party: This unique event, complete with Hawaiian
dancers, great wines, and sublime food, exceeded all of my
expectations. Each of the five courses served was created by a
different chef, including Roys founder Roy Yamaguchi, Roys of Austin
chef Bill Trevio, and guest chefs Tyson Cole and David Apthorpe, and
each shone in its own right.
7) Meats from Cooper's Meat Market: I tasted two fabulous custom-
cooked meats from Coopers Meat Market in 2004. First, during the Hill
Country Wine & Food Festival, the roasted whole suckling pig was a
showstopper: falling-apart tender, almost sweet, unbelievably
delicious. Then, for Thanksgiving, the smoked turkey was absolutely
the best ever. Kudos to Lee and her crew!
8) Patricia Quintana's Izote: OK, now I am bragging. But dining at
Patricia Quintanas Izote restaurant in Mexico City was the highlight
of my trip back home last fall. From the tequila shots served in an
ice-coated glass to the miniature shrimp sopes, the exquisite squash
blossom broth, and the fish in huitlacoche cream, every dish was
superbly executed and elegantly served.
9) SXUL Chocolate: I got some of these luscious, rich, and decadent
local handmade chocolates as a wedding gift and found that they are
the ultimate treat for the chocoholic: a dark chocolate shell filled
with double-chocolate ganache that melts in your mouth. The extra
endorphins dont hurt, either. Almost too good to be true.
10) Dim sum at Marco Polo: If its Sunday and theres no football to
watch, I can be found at Marco Polo having dim sum with friends. We
love the fried eggplant with shrimp, the pork and leek pan-fried
dumplings, the shrimp toast, and those awesome crispy pork ribs. We
chase them down with a cold Tsing Tao or a cup of hot chrysanthemum
tea.
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Top 10 Wines Wes Marshall Has Tasted This Year
After going through more than 2,500 wines, I've done my best to
narrow the group down to a top 10 that would both be available
locally and that would remember value for your hard-earned dollars.
You might have to go ask for some of these, but all will be worth the
effort. In alphabetical order:
2002 Balestri Valda Recioto ($35 for a .375)
NV Champagne Bollinger Special Cuveé ($60)
2001 Catena Alta Malbec ($40)
2001 Chateau Ste. Michelle Canoe Ridge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($25)
1997 Croft Late Bottled Vintage Port ($17)
2003 Darioush Napa Valley Viognier ($35)
2002 Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris "Les Princes Abbés" ($23)
2001 Quinta de Roriz Reserva ($22)
2001 Renwood "Old Vine" Zinfandel ($17)
1998 Trimbach Gewurztraminer "Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre"
($38)
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MM Pack's 10 Best Austin Food Events
1) The Saveur Texas Hill Country Wine & Food Festival is the third-
largest food and wine festival in the U.S. Held every April in
Austin, it is a four-day gastronomic blowout, with a focus on the
local bounty of Central Texas. 2005 will be its 20th year.
2) The Green Corn Project, whose mission is to educate and assist
Central Texans in growing organic home food gardens, holds a
fundraiser every October at Boggy Creek Farm. The celebration
embodies the Projects motto, Cook globally, grow locally, with
cooking demos by local chefs and terrific tastes prepared by premier
Austin restaurants and caterers.
3) The Austin Chronicle Hot Sauce Festival has been the premier
pepperfest in Central Texas for 14 years. Appropriately held in
blistering August in Waterloo Park, its an opportunity to hear local
music, swill cold beer, and taste entries from very serious sauce
makers, both commercial and amateur.
4) Spamarama, the biggest potted-pork party on the planet, is
sponsored each spring by News 8 Austin in Waterloo Park. Where else
can you enjoy green eggs and Spam, fried Spam, and Spam queso and
chips? And dont forget the Spamalympics and Spam sculpture contest.
5) Thai Cultural Day, sponsored by the Thai Association of Central
Texas, is held every spring at Fiesta Gardens. It opens with a
Buddhist ceremony and features terrific vendor food, cooking and
vegetable carving demos, Thai music, and dancing.
6) Each March, a signature piece of the Star of Texas Fair & Rodeo is
the Cowboy Breakfast at Auditorium Shores. Beginning at 6am, they
serve up cowboy coffee, sausage, doughnuts, pigs in a blanket, steak
sandwiches, breakfast tacos, hot pancakes, flaky biscuits, and groovy
gravy. Also, the newly annual Chuckwagon Cookoff features old-style
trail wagons authentically restored or replicated, right down to the
cookbox and dutch ovens. As part of the competition, wagon owners
prepare trail food over open fires all day and serve up the delicious
results to the hungry hordes.
7) The Philippine-Pacific Island Festival and Friendship Day,
sponsored by the Austin Filipino-American Association, takes place in
October at Fiesta Gardens. Free to the public, it showcases
Philippine and Polynesian foods, music, dances, and crafts. Get your
lumpia here, folks.
8) For the past seven Februarys, Project Transitions has held the
Guess Who's Coming to Dinner? fundraiser. Volunteers host elaborately
themed dinner parties around the city, ending with everyone
converging for a champagne and dessert gala.
9) Each April, the Austin Museum of Art hosts La Dolce Vita on the
grounds of Laguna Gloria, a hedonistic, gastronomic fundraiser with
fabu food provided by Austin chefs and restaurants. Wine flows under
the stars and twinkling lights, and Austin shows off its party
clothes.
10) St. Elias Orthodox Church has hosted the Austin Mediterranean
Festival for an amazing 72 years. Held each October on the church
grounds near the Capitol, the two-day event features locally handmade
Greek food and appetizers from around the Mediterranean. Its all
accompanied by appropriate music and the requisite belly-dancing.
Opa!
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Rachel Feit's Top 10 Restaurants to Which to Take a 4-Year-Old
[this would go under 'thanks for the warning' in my book]
1) Central Market North (4001 N. Lamar): Still the undisputed best
place in town to take your small children. Central Market absolutely
buzzes with activity all days of the week. The cafeteria offers a
wide variety of dishes guaranteed to please not just little palates.
Great wines, live music, and one of Austins loveliest outdoor porches
make it easy for both you and your kids to relax, eat, and take in
some music. Once the little ones are done, you can relax some more
while they play with 50 of their new friends on the adjoining
playground. Kids eat free on Tuesday nights.
2) Waterloo Ice House (6203 Capital of TX Hwy. N. or 1106 W. 38th):
With a menu that kids love (hamburgers, french fries, chicken strips,
quesadillas), occasional live music, and a casual, kid-friendly
environment, Waterloo is quickly becoming a regular on our rotation
list. The Waterloo on Loop 360 has a huge outdoor play-ground in a
fenced yard. The one on 38th has arcade games (one from the prevideo
era) that keep the kids entertained.
3) EZ's (3918 N. Lamar): They have all the things that little kids
love, from ham-burgers and fries to pizza and pasta to roasted
chicken. The fast-paced, noisy environment guarantees that your child
wont be too much of a menace when they use outside voices.
4) Marimont Cafeteria (623 W. 38th): Quick, cheap, and good. Kids
will love being able to see it first, then pick out what they want at
this Seventies-style cafeteria. The place is usually full of blue-
hairs who will ooh and aah appropriately over your little angel.
5) Frank & Angie's Pizzeria (508 West Ave.): Almost all kids love
pizza, and this is the quintessential crowded, noisy pizza joint that
serves great New York-style pies. Dont forget to order a chocolate
chip and dried cherry cannoli for dessert.
6) Austin Diner (5408 Burnet Rd.): Probably the best place in the
city to enjoy an American-style breakfast. Fantastic pancakes, French
toast, biscuits and gravy, and iced cinnamon rolls. They have a whole
wall of toys to entertain kids during the meal. My son begs to go
there for breakfast on weekends.
7) Dim sum (anywhere): This is a fun way to expose your kids to new
flavors. They can choose little portions of what they want from the
carts that go by. My son loves the sticky rice in a lotus leaf and
the fried radish cake (smothered in soy sauce). The fortune cookie at
the end is like a little present. Restaurants that serve good dim sum
include T&S Seafood, Golden Bay, Tien Hong, and Marco Polo.
8) Hang Town Grill (701 Capital of TX Hwy. N.): Burgers, pizza, kids
combo meals, and blaring TVs make this a stellar restaurant for a
family night out. Kids under 12 eat free on Monday nights.
9) Rudy's on Loop 360 (2451 Capital of TX Hwy. S.): Their huge, grass-
covered back yard makes it easy to enjoy Rudys killer chopped beef or
smoked pork loin while the tots run around and play.
10) Upper Crust Bakery (4508 Burnet Rd.): OK, so this is specific to
my 4-year-old. Hes addicted to the UCs cinnamon rolls, as am I, and
apparently so are plenty of other families. The place is packed with
couples and their small children on weekend mornings. The staff is
very patient with kids.
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Copyright © 1995-2005 Austin Chronicle Corp. All rights reserved.
2805scopes for this week
Jan. 8th, 2005 11:24 amJan. 8, 2005
Taurus Horoscope for week of January 6, 2005
Even if it's cold where you live, I highly recommend that you spend
quality time outdoors. Lovingly observe the behavior of animals and
familiarize yourself with the rhythms of the moon; watch a river flow
at night and take deep inhalations of the earth's aroma; learn the
names of the different kinds of clouds and trees; sing a song to the
sun. Simple acts of reverence like these will bring you into close
alignment with mysteriously beneficent forces. Your luck and
intuition will improve, as will your sense of timing. Why? The
astrological omens say that nature wants you to get to know her
better so she can pour more of her magic into you.
Gemini Horoscope for week of January 6, 2005
Last October I crammed all the fallen leaves from my mulberry tree
into a garbage can, which I then hauled to a spot behind the garage
and forgot about. Recently I rediscovered it. Though the temperature
outside was in the 40s, the leaves inside the can were positively
warm from the chemical changes going on as they rotted. Believe it or
not, I immediately thought of you, Gemini. Metaphorically speaking,
there is something similar going on in your life. The decay of the
old stuff that you shed a few months ago is now generating a lot of
energy. Can you somehow make use of it?